Assembling the Computer
• The UATA hard drive (and cable) have been replaced by a SATA hard drive (cable included with the motherboard). Effects on assembly: the hard drive uses a different cable from the one shown below, and plugs into a different spot on the motherboard.
• The Zalman fan has been replaced by a three-speed Antec fan with a 4-pin power connector. Effects on assembly: the fan plugs into main power instead of the motherboard; the power-supply fan plugs into the motherboard.
• The video card and DVD-ROM drive are different. Effects on assembly: none, but slightly different pictures.
The 2005.08.23 standard workstation has more changes. There turns out to be a serious bug in the motherboard BIOS in the 2005.08.23 workstation, and fixing that bug requires the following extra steps once the computer has beeped:
• On a working computer, download the file A8V-ASUS-0213.ROM from the Asus A8V download page. This file has MD5 checksum 9c44e207cb3e37a6dc797aa6e1b99f5e.
• On a working computer, rename the file as A8VB.ROM and burn that file to a CD.
• On the standard workstation, as soon as the initial boot screen appears, press Alt-F2 to enter the BIOS EZ Flash utility, and then insert the CD. The EZ Flash utility will read A8VB.ROM from CD, erase the system's BIOS, and copy A8VB.ROM to the system's BIOS; don't turn the computer off while this is happening!
• After reboot, don't worry about the bad-checksum message; simply press F2 to continue.
The 2004.10.10 standard workstation is a very nice x86 (Intel-compatible) computer: solid, extremely fast, and reasonably inexpensive. I have a separate page explaining how to buy the components of the standard workstation. This page explains how to assemble those components into a working computer.
Some of these instructions, and most of the pictures, are specific to the 2004.10.10 standard workstation. If you're using any different components, you'll have to figure out appropriate modifications to the instructions.
Unpack the computer case. Discard its plastic wrap. Put on an antistatic wrist strap, and attach it to ground (for example, to the screw on a typical light-switch plate).
Unscrew the big screws on the back of the case. Pull on the side latch to open the case. Take the power cord and the brown box out of the case. Open the brown box to find a bag of screws and brass standoffs:
Take five brass standoffs out of the bag.
Look for four brass standoffs already installed at the back of the case:
Two of them are in line at the bottom; screw another into the third hole at the bottom. Two more are in line at the middle; screw another into the third hole at that height. Screw three more into the first, fourth, and sixth holes on the top, roughly (not exactly) lined up with the three standoffs on the bottom and the three standoffs in the middle:
Use a hammer to tap the face plate out of the case:
Open the motherboard box and find a replacement face plate. Tap the replacement face plate into the case, with two holes at the top and three holes at the bottom. The face plate has three tabs bent into the case; bend them further so that they are at 90 degrees to the plate.
Take the motherboard out of its box, and lay it on a non-metallic flat surface, such as a wooden table:
Look at the pattern of silver-circled holes on the motherboard; those will eventually line up with the brass standoffs in the case. Move the brass standoffs if necessary to match the motherboard.
Unpack the DIMM. Push apart the two white DIMM holders on the ends of the blue DIMM slot on the motherboard:
Push the DIMM solidly into the blue DIMM slot:
Pull the CPU-socket locking lever slightly out, then up to vertical:
Take the CPU out of its plastic container and off of the black foam, revealing an array of gold pins:
Put the CPU into the CPU socket, with the CPU triangle on top of the triangle marked on the motherboard; opposite corner from the lever. When the CPU is aligned properly with the socket, it will drop gently into the socket:
Push the CPU-socket locking lever back to its original position:
Take the plastic cover off the heatsink. Put the heatsink on top of the CPU, with the gray square face down on top of the CPU, and with the big black clip toward the center of the motherboard:
Make sure that the big black clip is pointing up, and push the silver hook onto the black tab below it:
Do the same with the silver hook on the other side. Make sure that both hooks are firmly below their tabs. Rotate the big black clip---it will push back at you somewhat---and hook it into place:
Attach the dangling plug into the three pins at the edge of the motherboard labelled ``CPU fan.'' Orient the plug so that its lips hook around the pins:
Lay the case flat on its side. Put the motherboard gently into the case:
Slide the motherboard towards the edge of the case; it will fit snugly into the face plate (under the three tabs that you bent earlier) and the brass standoffs will be visible through the holes. Screw nine small Phillips-head screws into the nine holes. Don't overtighten.
The case has several slots for expansion cards, each slot covered by a plate. Unscrew the second plate from the top. Plug in, and screw in, the video card:
Unhook the 3.5'' drive cage from the case:
Take the 3.5'' drive cage out of the case:
Plug in the Zalman fan. Plug the fan connector into the fan resistor:
Change the hard drive jumper from CS to Slave. Slide the hard drive into the middle of the 3.5'' drive cage, slightly more than halfway, so that two of its screw holes are visible. Screw the hard drive into the drive cage:
Screw in the other side.
Wrap the fan cable around the fan so that it will end up coming out towards the back of the case:
Slide the drive cage back into the case, and hook it into place:
Slide two drive rails out of their holders on the bottom of the case. Screw them onto the DVD-ROM drive:
Change the DVD-ROM jumper from Slave to Master.
Push the top side buttons on the case to release the top front of the case. Take the front off, and pop the middle 5.25'' drive cover out:
(Why the middle position? The top position is bad for two reasons: first, it doesn't give heat from the DVD-ROM drive any room to rise; second, the nice IDE cable won't reach from the hard drive to the top position. In retrospect, the bottom position is even better heat-wise, and makes the cabling less of a stretch, but my pictures assume the middle position.)
Slowly wiggle the corresponding metal plate inside the case back and forth until it snaps off. Watch out for sharp edges.
Slide the DVD-ROM drive into the case from the front until it snaps into place:
Slide the front of the case back on, around the DVD-ROM drive:
If you moved the case, lay it flat again:
Plug the IDE cable into the DVD-ROM drive (master), the hard drive (slave), and the motherboard:
Screw the IDE cable's grounding connector to the case:
Take the rubber band off the power cables from the power supply:
Two cables are different: they have two rows of pins. Plug these cables into the motherboard until they click:
Plug the front fan connector into the motherboard:
Plug 4-pin power cables into the rear fan, the DVD-ROM, and the hard drive:
Plug the reset-switch, power-switch, HDD-LED, speaker, and power-LED connectors into the motherboard, all labels facing upwards:
Plug the USB cable into the motherboard:
Don't worry about the IEEE 1394 (FireWire) cable. Don't worry about the power-supply fan cable. (I didn't realize, when I was selecting components for the standard workstation, that there were only two fan connectors on the motherboard. The next version of the standard workstation will have either a $2 3-pin-to-4-pin converter or a 4-pin case fan.)
Starting now, be very careful not to touch anything inside the case. Power will be flowing into the computer in a moment; if you touch something inside the case, you can electrocute yourself!
Take off the antistatic wrist strap. Turn the case's rear power switch off (0). Plug power into the case. Turn the power switch on (1). Watch the CPU fan, and press the front power button on the case. If the CPU fan doesn't start spinning, turn power off immediately; you have a problem. If the computer doesn't beep within thirty seconds, turn power off; you have a problem. If the CPU fan starts spinning and the computer beeps, turn power off; you have a working computer. Put the side of the case back on.
1. All the necessary components(Although the all the below components are preferable, not all are necessary. Then necessary ones are marked with a *)
- Processors *
- Motherboard *
- Hardisk *
- RAM *
- Cabinet *
- Floppy Drive *
- CD Drive *
- Cards
- Display Card (Not needed if On-board display is available on Motherboard)
- Sound Card (Not needed if On-board sound is available on Motherboard)
- Modem
- Other Cards(If Any)
- Monitors *
- Keyboard *
- Mouse *
- Speakers
- UPS
- Other Components(If Any)
- Also keep the cables that came with thee components close by
2. Philips head Screwdriver (Or Star Screwdriver)
3. Flat head Screwdriver
4. Forceps (for pulling out jumpers and screws)
5. Magnatized Screwdriver
6. Multi meter (Testing)
Source : www.google.com
Minggu, 27 September 2009
Rabu, 23 September 2009
Disassembly A Computer system
5 Tips For Disassembling A Computer System
Disassembling a computer can be a painful task. Although disassembling a computer can appear to be a daunting task for beginners, it is really not that difficult. These include things like cutting off the power supply, opening the case slowly and disconnecting various components.
1. Cut Off The Power
This is important. The first thing to do when disassembling a PC is to disconnect your computer from all power sources. Rip out that power cord. If your PC was still connected to the Power sources Then you accidentally stated disassembly – You get a shock with the power sources. So always remember to do this step first
2. Open the Case Slowly
The standard way of removing tower cases used to be to undo 4-6 screws on the back of the case, slide the cover back about an inch and lift it off. Manufacturers are beginning to come up with trickier and more intricate methods of assembling these cases all the time. If there is no manual, then a little time taken for careful inspection may be in order. Some PCs slide off the side - and you may need to remove some screws before the cover can come off. Others open in different ways. You need to check your specific computer case. Here are some things to remember :
• If there are no screws on the back of the case for the cover, check the plastic faceplate on the front. Some pry off to reveal screws or release levers (remember, careful inspection). If everything on the front has its own bezel around it (including the LEDs) then maybe the plastic front pops off (or maybe the case slides off the front).
• If you notice a separation between the sides and the top, then they must come off separately. My favorite ATX case allows you to remove two screws from the back, then slide the side panel to the rear an inch and remove it. The other side removes the same way. It's a good, solid, well built case.
• Make sure any screws removed are for the cover. You don't want to unscrew the power supply by accident and have it fall inside your computer. That's a bad thing.
• After the case is removed, place it in a safe place, where it won't get knocked of a table, kicked or stepped on and bent.
3. Learn What is Inside the Case
Once that computer case comes off, you need to familiarize yourself with the internals of your PC. If you want, you can take photos. Usually, the things to look out for are you video card, hard drives, sound card, CPU, memory modules.
4. Disconnecting Adapter Cards
If you need to remove adapter cards, e.g. a PCI based sound card, you will need to take note of the screw at the top of the bracket. Remove that screw first, then you'll be ready to disconnect the card.
• Again, documentation is very important. Yes, that 16-bit ISA card will probably work in any 16-bit ISA slot, but there may be a reason it's in that particular one. Document the type of card and which slot it comes from.
• Check the card for any cables or wires that might be attached and decide if it would be easier to remove them before or after you remove the card.
• Undo the screw that holds the card in place.
• Grab the card by its edges, front and back, and gently rock it lengthwise to release it. Do not wiggle it side to side as you can break the card, the slot, or the solder. Sometimes it helps to grasp the inside corner of the card with one hand and place a finger from the other hand under the associated port out the back of the computer to pry up the one end of the card.
• Once the card is removed, you may want to record any jumper settings you see, just in case one is accidentally dislodged. Try to store the card in an antistatic bag. If you don't plan on replacing the card then a cover should be installed over the slot opening.
5. Disconnecting Disk Drives
Removing drives is not that difficult. They usually have a power connector and a data cable attached from the device to a controller card or a connector on the motherboard. CD-ROMs may have an analog cable connected to the sound card. The other point to note is regarding disk drives. Disk drives (hard disks and floppy disks) usually have screws at the side to secure them in the PC's drive bays. Make sure you unscrew those carefully and hang on to the drive while doing it.
• The power will be attached using one of two connectors, a large Molex connector or a smaller Berg connector for the floppy drive. The Molex connector may need to be wiggled slightly from side to side while applying gentle pressure outwards. The Berg connector may just pull straight out or it may have a small tab that has to be lifted with a tiny flat screwdriver.
• The data cables need to be documented. Remember the pin one rule. Know where each one goes before you pull it out and record its orientation (which side is the stripe on, where is pin 1?). Pull data cables gently and carefully. In other words, don't yank them off, and pull level and in the direction of the pins.
• Now you need to do a little more inspection, can the entire drive bay be removed? Does that particular drive come out the back of the bay or does it slide out the front before the bay is removed. If a bay is removable, you may have to remove some screws or unclip a lever then slide the bay back and off. If the bay is not removable, there should be access ports on the other side of the case that allow for access to those screws (there should be, I've seen some that you just about have to remove the motherboard to access these screws). Now you can remove the screws and slide the drive out the back of the bay. If the drive slides out the front of the case, then remove the screws and gently slide it forward.
6. Removing the memory modules
Memory modules are one of the chips that can be damaged by as little as 30 volts. Be careful of ESD and handle them only by the edges. SIMMs and DIMMs are removed differently:
• SIMM - gently push back the metal tabs holding the SIMM in the socket. Tilt the SIMM away from the tabs to about a 45% angle. It should now lift out. Put each SIMM in its own protective bag.
• DIMM- There are plastic tabs on the end of the DIMM socket. Push the tabs down and away from the socket. The DIMM should lift slightly. Now you can grab it by the edges and place it in a separate antistatic bag.
1. Removing the Power Supply
• Make sure it's unplugged.
• All power connectors should be removed, including the connection to the motherboard and any auxiliary fans. Watch the little plastic tabs on ATX connectors (you'ld rather not break them). AT power supplies have a two piece power connector that may be labeled P-8 and P-9. Make note of the orientation. The black wires should be in the middle, black to black.
• Remove the connection to the remote power switch at the front of the case. Orientation of the colored wires at this switch is critical. If you remove them, make sure you document well, and during re-assembly plug the computer into a fused surge protector before turning it on (this could save your motherboard and components from melting if you've reconnected improperly). If you're putting the same power supply back, it's better to remove the entire switch and leave the connectors entact. The remote switch on an ATX form factor attaches to the motherboard.
• Remove the four screws at the back of the case and gently slide the power supply out of the case. While removing these screws, hold onto the power supply. You don't want it falling into the case.
2. Removing the Motherboard
• Document and remove all wire attachments to the motherboard. (Some of these have Pin 1 designations also.)
• Most cases have a removable panel that the motherboard is attached to. By removing a couple of screws the panel can be taken off and you can gain much better access to the motherboard. Again, a little investigation can save a lot of trouble.
• There is usually 2 or 3 screws holding down newer motherboards. Make sure you've got the right ones and remove them.
• Motherboards sit on plastic or brass standoffs that keep the traces and solder from touching the metal case and grounding out. Once the screws are removed you can lift the motherboard out. In other cases, the motherboard has to be slid horizontally towards the bottom of the case to unclip the plastic standoffs and then lifted out.
• Place the motherboard in an antistatic bag.
Conclusion
You now know some tips for disassembling a PC. Its important to bear the above points, Good luck and happy computing.
Disassembling a computer can be a painful task. Although disassembling a computer can appear to be a daunting task for beginners, it is really not that difficult. These include things like cutting off the power supply, opening the case slowly and disconnecting various components.
1. Cut Off The Power
This is important. The first thing to do when disassembling a PC is to disconnect your computer from all power sources. Rip out that power cord. If your PC was still connected to the Power sources Then you accidentally stated disassembly – You get a shock with the power sources. So always remember to do this step first
2. Open the Case Slowly
The standard way of removing tower cases used to be to undo 4-6 screws on the back of the case, slide the cover back about an inch and lift it off. Manufacturers are beginning to come up with trickier and more intricate methods of assembling these cases all the time. If there is no manual, then a little time taken for careful inspection may be in order. Some PCs slide off the side - and you may need to remove some screws before the cover can come off. Others open in different ways. You need to check your specific computer case. Here are some things to remember :
• If there are no screws on the back of the case for the cover, check the plastic faceplate on the front. Some pry off to reveal screws or release levers (remember, careful inspection). If everything on the front has its own bezel around it (including the LEDs) then maybe the plastic front pops off (or maybe the case slides off the front).
• If you notice a separation between the sides and the top, then they must come off separately. My favorite ATX case allows you to remove two screws from the back, then slide the side panel to the rear an inch and remove it. The other side removes the same way. It's a good, solid, well built case.
• Make sure any screws removed are for the cover. You don't want to unscrew the power supply by accident and have it fall inside your computer. That's a bad thing.
• After the case is removed, place it in a safe place, where it won't get knocked of a table, kicked or stepped on and bent.
3. Learn What is Inside the Case
Once that computer case comes off, you need to familiarize yourself with the internals of your PC. If you want, you can take photos. Usually, the things to look out for are you video card, hard drives, sound card, CPU, memory modules.
4. Disconnecting Adapter Cards
If you need to remove adapter cards, e.g. a PCI based sound card, you will need to take note of the screw at the top of the bracket. Remove that screw first, then you'll be ready to disconnect the card.
• Again, documentation is very important. Yes, that 16-bit ISA card will probably work in any 16-bit ISA slot, but there may be a reason it's in that particular one. Document the type of card and which slot it comes from.
• Check the card for any cables or wires that might be attached and decide if it would be easier to remove them before or after you remove the card.
• Undo the screw that holds the card in place.
• Grab the card by its edges, front and back, and gently rock it lengthwise to release it. Do not wiggle it side to side as you can break the card, the slot, or the solder. Sometimes it helps to grasp the inside corner of the card with one hand and place a finger from the other hand under the associated port out the back of the computer to pry up the one end of the card.
• Once the card is removed, you may want to record any jumper settings you see, just in case one is accidentally dislodged. Try to store the card in an antistatic bag. If you don't plan on replacing the card then a cover should be installed over the slot opening.
5. Disconnecting Disk Drives
Removing drives is not that difficult. They usually have a power connector and a data cable attached from the device to a controller card or a connector on the motherboard. CD-ROMs may have an analog cable connected to the sound card. The other point to note is regarding disk drives. Disk drives (hard disks and floppy disks) usually have screws at the side to secure them in the PC's drive bays. Make sure you unscrew those carefully and hang on to the drive while doing it.
• The power will be attached using one of two connectors, a large Molex connector or a smaller Berg connector for the floppy drive. The Molex connector may need to be wiggled slightly from side to side while applying gentle pressure outwards. The Berg connector may just pull straight out or it may have a small tab that has to be lifted with a tiny flat screwdriver.
• The data cables need to be documented. Remember the pin one rule. Know where each one goes before you pull it out and record its orientation (which side is the stripe on, where is pin 1?). Pull data cables gently and carefully. In other words, don't yank them off, and pull level and in the direction of the pins.
• Now you need to do a little more inspection, can the entire drive bay be removed? Does that particular drive come out the back of the bay or does it slide out the front before the bay is removed. If a bay is removable, you may have to remove some screws or unclip a lever then slide the bay back and off. If the bay is not removable, there should be access ports on the other side of the case that allow for access to those screws (there should be, I've seen some that you just about have to remove the motherboard to access these screws). Now you can remove the screws and slide the drive out the back of the bay. If the drive slides out the front of the case, then remove the screws and gently slide it forward.
6. Removing the memory modules
Memory modules are one of the chips that can be damaged by as little as 30 volts. Be careful of ESD and handle them only by the edges. SIMMs and DIMMs are removed differently:
• SIMM - gently push back the metal tabs holding the SIMM in the socket. Tilt the SIMM away from the tabs to about a 45% angle. It should now lift out. Put each SIMM in its own protective bag.
• DIMM- There are plastic tabs on the end of the DIMM socket. Push the tabs down and away from the socket. The DIMM should lift slightly. Now you can grab it by the edges and place it in a separate antistatic bag.
1. Removing the Power Supply
• Make sure it's unplugged.
• All power connectors should be removed, including the connection to the motherboard and any auxiliary fans. Watch the little plastic tabs on ATX connectors (you'ld rather not break them). AT power supplies have a two piece power connector that may be labeled P-8 and P-9. Make note of the orientation. The black wires should be in the middle, black to black.
• Remove the connection to the remote power switch at the front of the case. Orientation of the colored wires at this switch is critical. If you remove them, make sure you document well, and during re-assembly plug the computer into a fused surge protector before turning it on (this could save your motherboard and components from melting if you've reconnected improperly). If you're putting the same power supply back, it's better to remove the entire switch and leave the connectors entact. The remote switch on an ATX form factor attaches to the motherboard.
• Remove the four screws at the back of the case and gently slide the power supply out of the case. While removing these screws, hold onto the power supply. You don't want it falling into the case.
2. Removing the Motherboard
• Document and remove all wire attachments to the motherboard. (Some of these have Pin 1 designations also.)
• Most cases have a removable panel that the motherboard is attached to. By removing a couple of screws the panel can be taken off and you can gain much better access to the motherboard. Again, a little investigation can save a lot of trouble.
• There is usually 2 or 3 screws holding down newer motherboards. Make sure you've got the right ones and remove them.
• Motherboards sit on plastic or brass standoffs that keep the traces and solder from touching the metal case and grounding out. Once the screws are removed you can lift the motherboard out. In other cases, the motherboard has to be slid horizontally towards the bottom of the case to unclip the plastic standoffs and then lifted out.
• Place the motherboard in an antistatic bag.
Conclusion
You now know some tips for disassembling a PC. Its important to bear the above points, Good luck and happy computing.
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